Make sure that your prints are lined with acid free paper. Light Impression Renaissance Tissue is the best; Glassine is fine for transportation. Keep the prints away from light, humidity, air pollution, and all types of acid. Make sure your prints are not in the same flat-file as your silver prints as silver prints that weren’t washed properly can off-gas and cause yellowing.
Yes. We either set you up with an FTP acct for you to download the file, or you can bring a portable hardrive so we can transfer the file over to it. CDs and DVDs are a hassle to burn, but we’ll do it at a fee.
We are an editions print studio. That means that our system is set up to print your image exactly the same a week or three years down the road. We linearize our ink/paper/profile combos every week. This keeps everything in-tune and running exactly the same even with different paper and ink batches and as the printers age. We also like to keep a test-strip of each first-image that we print so that if we believe something is wrong, we can match to your test-strip when re-printing.
Yes and yes. We’ve printed for many galleries, museums, and collections/collectors all over the country. In many cases, ink-on-paper prints are more desirable and archival than c-prints.
“Pigment Print” is our preferred term. Many people say “Archival Inkjet Print” but the word “inkjet” says “desktop printer” and turns people away. “Piezo (the technical term for inkjet) Print” is another name. Some people are using the name “Piezotype” or “Pigment Piezotype.” If you want to be high-class about it, you can say “Giclee Print.”